[superj]

Well, I got a front brake so I can ride with my son. A bmx lever to hold me over until I pick something permanent. I am running the stem mount friction shifters currently. Well, actually, I removed the front cable and then had to get ready for a Christmas party so everything is all laid out to do the swap. Have to jump back on it tomorrow after the morning 25 mile ride (if I make it since this party ends at midnight )

[superj]

oh, and i had the brakes names totally backward. they just stuck in my head that way when i was reading about them a while back.

i have the shimano v-brakes on this bike, not hte cantilever like in the pic you posted. i think the shape of the cable on those cantilever mess me up since it looks like an upside down V and maybe thats why i always call them v-brakes. either way. i don;t have those.

thanks for all the links though, i am trying to work with the harris cyclery guys to find some good handles to use with the v-brakes

[salvage_bikes]

Dia Compe and Tektro make models of v-brake compatible road bike levers with hoods, for around $20-40. They are popular for Cyclocross bikes and conversions. I dig them but I run riser bars on my 26" v brake bikes.

I made these for a cyclocross bike conversion of a Walmart hybrid, before I put the riser bar back on it for motor bicycling. I still have the drop bar and think I might put it back on the bike, now that I have the throttle system worked out.


http://cdn.twospoke.com/images/5/6/4/5/psychocross-bike-1.jpg
Schwinn avenue with drop bars and stock v-brake shifter combos, with machined out clamps for wider bar diameter


[IMG]http://motorbicycling.com/picture.php?albumid=531&pictureid=5512[/IMG
My 3x7 GMC Denali road bike with a replacement touring bar, and Sunrace mtn bike pods, also with machined clamps.

Dia Compe 287 V V-brake compatible road levers, about $30
http://www.wigglestatic.com/images/dia-dc287v-med.jpg?w=350&h=350&a=7



http://www.modernbike.com/images/Product_Images/main_2126181576.jpg
Cane Creek (I love this brand!) v-brake road levers, $50

[salvage_bikes]

These are compatible with v-brakes, according to the customer service operator via live chat. (steel "iron marterial" old school safety levers, 1970s style.) It's possible they really are v-brake compatible, because a lot of the roller brakes on those old bikes really needed some cable travel to work.

http://www.dinodirect.com/brake-levers-iron-road-bike.html?cur=USD&vn=RGlub2RpcmVjdEZ1Y2s&affid=384 6&source=sem&gclid=CM3hwaDPoLQCFQKRPAodgCsA2w

[salvage_bikes]

Another way to get some great v-brake levers on drops (if you DON'T want to use the brake hoods as hand positions), is to use "interrupt" levers on the ends of the drops, as if they were cowhorn brake levers. You can run the cable ends into the barrel adjusters OR the other side of the brake clamp! Lots of options. They come in clamp sizes for mtn or road bars.

YouTube

YouTube

[superj]

cool, thanks. i have been looking at the tektro and the cane creek ones but i have never seen how aero brakes are laced up so i don;t know if i need any crazy stuff to make them work. i think they would look better but i just have to learn how the cables are run and if they need anything different then normal to use. if they are the same but just have a different routing of the cables, i will go with aero instead

[salvage_bikes]

If you install road levers on a drop bar, the cables go from the brake hoods, along the front edge of the bar tops, where they are held in place by the bar tape (wrap). They come out near the stem, and make a nice arch ending at the brake noodle for the front brake, and frame bosses or the brake noodle for the rear. If you are going to get it really muddy, leave the full length cable for the rear brake and use frame clips.

[superj]

hmm, cool. sounds easy enough

mine is not going to really get in mud so i won't need to worry about that. thanks, again.