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Old 08-30-2009, 11:39 AM   #1
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Chain Wax

What ever happened to that chain wax? I used it for years because it didn't pick up dirt and grim so fast but with the new chains you can't break then down so easy and I stopped using it.

I use WD40 and wash my chain once a week or more and shifters. It's flat here so I don't shift much like I did in the mountains of California.

My bikes run nice and I keep it adjusted so it's quiet.

I LOVE MY BIKES


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Old 08-30-2009, 10:12 PM   #2
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I use a teflon based lube for everything, from cables to chain, seems to work well.

BTW, good luck with the ride with the "church Boys" Burr
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Old 08-31-2009, 05:52 AM   #3
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BUT, you don't take your chain off to Lube it, do you?

I just wash, dry and spray with WD40 every few days, keep the brush, soap and bucket ready with my bike stand close.

Just wiped my road bike down with Windix and I'm ready to ride again
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:07 PM   #4
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I'm a little different; I alternate between Mobil 1 0W-20 and stainless steel polish in a spray can. After both, I wipe the chain thoroughly. The Mobil 1 lasts longer and lubricates better, the SS polish lubes well, and cleans the excess oil off, but doesn't last more than about 2 days. I can get most of a week with a single app of Mobil 1.

But, the best stuff I've ever used is Giant Liquid Silk -- it's just expensive!
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:12 PM   #5
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What works for you.

I have to use what I got and over here that's not much.


OK, The NYY game is starting
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:48 AM   #6
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I use Chain-L lube and that stuff lasts a month before I get antse and wonder why the chain isn't making noise or looking dirty. I just run a rag about once a week to wipe off any dirt and don't even bother to relube for a month, which the directions say not to relube unless the chain starts making noise...but I'm old school so doing this seems foreign to me, so I'm probably over applying, but I do clean the chain anyway before I reapply, so I don't know but it seems to be working. The real test will be to see how long the chain will last vs the other stuff I've used before.

Last edited by froze; 09-09-2010 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:11 AM   #7
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Well the one thing you do NOT want to use is WD 40. It's a solvent, not a lube. Most any chain oil will work ok if you do it regularly. It doesn't have to be every ride.

I have one of those tanks with brushes for the chain that you can fill up with degreaser. They sell stuff for that but I just use Simple Green. It works and is a lot cheaper. Every week or so, I clean, rinse off the simple green and let it dry. Then oil and wipe with a rag. When the chain gets dirty or rattles, I repeat.

A clean and well lubed chain can save a lot of grief.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:56 PM   #8
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<Sniff> I love the smell of a chainlube war in the morning!

Chain wax is still around, in the form of White Lightning. I use the Clean Ride formula. The black flecks are easy to clean with Pledge(tm) and they don't stain my clothes like oily chain gunk does. (With my recumbents, the chain runs inside my knee, so cleanliness is more important than having the best friction factor.)
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:31 PM   #9
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Wd-40

While I use WD-40 to clean my chain, I don't recommend it as the lubricant, its viscosity is too low. Personally, I use Multi-viscosity motor oil with Slick50 additive.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:31 PM   #10
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Not sure why your clothes would get oily gunk on them while riding...but ok. Wax is a poor lubricant, sure it keeps the chain clean but I would rather have it last longer.

And is your a die hard wax man and just have to wax your chain the drip kind is the worse; the best way to wax a chain if to use paraffin wax with a bit of teflon oil mixed in (Slick 50 or the such). You take a block of wax and put into a can big enough to hold a rolled up chain, put in about 2 or 3 tablespoons of the teflon with the wax. Then get a pan (an old pan you don't really want to use for food anymore or else your wife will fry you) and place the can in the center of the pan with about 2 inches of water in the pan. Heat the mixture on the till the water just starts to boil then turn it down i bit, Don't let it get too hot because you are heating oil, I let you ponder what might happen if it gets too hot! After the wax and oil has completely mixed together take it off the heat and let it solidify.

Prior to doing the above remove the chain off the bike and clean it, doing the hot wax treatment will clean the chain some more but it's best to preclean it, then roll the chain up and wrap a wire around the chain to hold it together but also so you can crab it with a hanger or pair of pliers later when it will be to hot to handle, and place it in the can with the wax. I like the coat hanger because you can grab the chain and hang the hanger on a hook without touching the chain. Then set the can back into the pan and add more water to bring the level back up to 2 inches as before. Bring the water back to boil and wait for the wax to melt into a liquid state, then stir the chain around with a wood spoon (again not going to use for food later), let it cook for at least 20 minutes because the chain and the wax have to bond, but keep moving the chain ever so often. And never leave it unattended while cooking.

Then remove the chain with pliers or a coat hanger and don't touch it because it's very hot and it will burn you good. Let the chain hang and let the wax drip into a paint pan but don't shake it while it's dripping and cooling. Once the chain had cooled to the touch then your ready to reinstall the chain. No need to clean the excess wax off because as you ride it will flake off anyways. If the wax starts to build up on the gears just pour some hot water on it and it will come off.

That is the best method, this wax crap in a bottle does not do the job anywhere near as good as the above. And the best way to do the hot wax is to use 2 chains, so you can have one chain waxed and ready to go while your doing another. The hot wax treatment was the way it was done for many years by many cyclists including me until bottle wax came along and everyone wanted to wax it the easy way, problem with bottle wax is that it's only good for about 60 to 70 miles then the chain starts making noise and once you hear noise accelerated wear has begun; also liquid wax in a bottle needs to be put on a chain and allowed to sit overnight before riding. And remember too that wax is best for relatively dry, clean climates and on bikes that aren't ridden in the rain or get wet.

Here's a Sheldon Brown site that tells about the effectiveness of wax as a lube: Chain Maintenance


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