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11-29-2012, 03:28 AM
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#11
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Total noob (& forum admin)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,847
Liked 1986 Times on 1311 Posts Likes Given: 2206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukelavis
Industry_Hack, that's exactly what I am hoping to do. But you made me remember a point I've heard before. Is it true that cables and chains stretch out over the first hundred miles or so? What should I be looking for?
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We call it stretch because unless you hand build bikes, taking a Dremel to cable housing and cutting them perfectly square and getting them to seat perfectly, things are going to settle a bit here and there. Which is why good shops let you bring your bike back for a free service after a certain amount of time/miles.
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11-29-2012, 02:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 460
Liked 117 Times on 66 Posts
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The thing about racing wheels and tires is durability.
I have a set i race with but do not daily ride with. They were expensive and a low spoke count and exotic materials make them impractical for daily miles. But for a race...zoom, zoom.
Bike weight...rolling weight is the "heaviest" weight on your bike. This weight is the tires, wheels, hubs, spokes and cranks(with pedals). The stuff that spins, basically. Wheels make the biggest weight change for this reason, a lighter set of wheels/tires will make a faster bike than say a lighter saddle.
But with lighter goes less. Less is less. Less strong, less durable, less miles.
Weight of a bike and long term durability goes hand in hand.
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12-04-2012, 11:35 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 11
Liked 7 Times on 3 Posts
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Thanks for all the advice, fellas. My first ride on the new bike was Saturday. It was a revelation after my older equipment: acceleration, climbing, and descent have all taken quite a jump.
Plus, the red one was getting a bit small.
Now I'll work on upgrading myself.
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12-04-2012, 12:16 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,806
Liked 818 Times on 521 Posts Likes Given: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kneedrachen
I agree with the above, but I'd start with a good bike fit; you may find your "upgrades" are more comfort-oriented, which will lead to performance gains. Think stem and saddle swaps as well as adjustments.
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Knee beat me to it, but this is the way I would go. Unless you plan on doing a lot of racing or you're a super speed freak, the gain you will get with a lighter set of wheels in Florida is going to be minimal. Reading posts on this and other forums, most posters say that the saddle is the first thing that they upgrade.
Edit: Nice looking bike, BTW.
Last edited by John_V; 12-04-2012 at 12:19 PM.
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12-04-2012, 07:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,216
Liked 334 Times on 257 Posts Likes Given: 2
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The trek saddle is a good one - but I think nothing is more personal than the saddle - I love my Fisik ! spelled wrong i am sure
And with your model of Trek - there aren't a lot of upgrades that will impact your riding unless you are already phenomenal
I bought my wife the WSD model of your bike & I won't spend any more money on bikes unless she starts kicking my butt and then I will spend it on my bike to keep up with her - I have the 3.1
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12-04-2012, 11:53 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 11
Liked 7 Times on 3 Posts
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Well I'm definitely not phenomenal. Not even close. But I am improving.
What drew you to the Fizik? In fact, what should I look for in a saddle? Will I know if I am on a poor saddle just by feel? Can you tell if a new seat will work just by sitting on it for a moment? What factors (such as weight, nose shape, holes in the saddle, etc.) should I consider.
It may help to share my goals. I am close to 30 and have been riding for six months. I don't race. I do like to perform strongly, well as strong as I can muster, on group rides. And I really enjoy cycling events. I've lost close to 25 pounds, currently weigh 191, and desire to shed more body fat. I'm 6'2". My dream right now is to easily hang with a long B ride.
I hope that makes sense. Thanks for all your help and advice.
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12-05-2012, 01:52 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,216
Liked 334 Times on 257 Posts Likes Given: 2
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A student of mine who is a competitive cyclist said - buy this one ! after about $400 of wasted money on various seat inventions to get comfortable. The little thin seats and there comfort level is a bit counter-intuitive but they work. Jon V swears by a seat I have never tried. The Bontrager that comes stock on yours is a pretty good seat but not as good as the Fizik - I would strongly recommend listening to others that are LONG DISTANCE daily riders for their input. By the way GREAT job so far ! Addicted to biking yet ?? sounds like we got another one
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12-05-2012, 02:36 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,364
Liked 1247 Times on 759 Posts Likes Given: 1494
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Cycling can make a rich man poor. No matter what you are riding there will be something later and greater out there. If you are not having great discomfort with your saddle stick with it.
__________________
"Gentlemen, it is better to have died a small boy than to fumble this football"
John Heisman
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12-05-2012, 03:06 AM
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#19
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The Back Row
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,502
Liked 689 Times on 481 Posts Likes Given: 1132
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Get your sit bones measured at the lbs. I would recommend the Specialized Toupe Expert, it's been good to me.
__________________
I think next year will be my strongest cycling year.
I started a twitter account @SempreCycling
Bianchi Sempre 105
Sometimes a headwind is really a tailwind, and sometimes a tailwind is really a headwind, to your development. Deep Thoughts.
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12-05-2012, 03:11 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,364
Liked 1247 Times on 759 Posts Likes Given: 1494
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Looking at your picture of your new bike I would suggest that you transfer you bottle cage to the down tube instead of the seat tube. That would make for an easier reach while riding. Now thats a free upgrade.
__________________
"Gentlemen, it is better to have died a small boy than to fumble this football"
John Heisman
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