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Discussion Starter #1
of the new road bike
so I've still not rode it yet will try to get it out tomrrow.
ok so I bought a new seat post and it has a new vice type thng on it to hold the seat and the seat has kind of a V shaped bracket to hold on to the post and they don't quite line up I've pushed and pulled and streached to make it fit as best as I can .. my question is ... is this a normal problem with seats. if iIbuy a new seat will this be a problem? or is the post just made for newer seats? the seat that came on the bike is in PERFECT condition. I just hate spending money on somthing that isn't needed.. ya know the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it ..
I'm still having some issues with the rear break. other than pulling thre cable tigher is there any way to adjust the rear breaK?
yeah I have no idea what i'm doing I know ya'll say take it to a bike shop but the probem is that I'm on a fixed income and just the $20 for the bike was a bite in my budget... so if it can be done by me it's going to have to be done by me.
thanks guys for all the help!!!!!:)
 

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First of all let me confirm one thing. When you bought the seat post, you did confirm that you got the correct size seat post. Most of the time the size is on the post and usually as a minimum insertion line on it to tell you it needs to be in at least that far. There are a lot of different sizes, and though some are more common than others, its definitely not a one size fits all. Wrong size can be a big problem and potentially be dangerous. Just because it went in the tube does not mean its the right size.

As far as getting the seat to fit, if its the type I think it is, the seat has basically two rails. The seat post has a clamp that clamps down on them. Look for a screw, bolt or allen that can be tightened from underneath. Instead of tightening, loosen it till its nearly all the way off. The top plate should at that point be able to be moved around and out of the way to get the seat rails in the right place. Then twist the top plate back where it goes and tighten it back down. Be ready to adjust.

What kind of brake issues are you having ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I took the old one with me and said I need one twice this long and I have it fitting and it is below the min line
The break pads are not gripping enough to fully stop the bike and I've pulled the cable as tight as I am personally able which may not be enough ?
 

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A couple of things to try. First of all take some rubbing alcohol or an alcohol swab to rub down the wheels. Grease on the rims can be a problem. Next thing to try is to take the pads off and with a piece of sand paper scuff them a bit. Make sure all the rocks and stones are out of the cracks. Over time the top can cause some crazing and if the bike has sat, it just doesn't want to stop right. The brakes if adjusted properly should ride just over the wheels, but not touching them. If they do that, its not an adjustment. The next step would be to replace the pads. Usually not a big expense and one you do NOT want to put off. Should run in the $6 is range or so. I have gotten too old and heal too slow to even consider riding a bike with bad brakes. Even the most minor crash is going to cost way more than that. Just the first aid supplies might even be that much, and if it avoids a trip to the ER it brings an old saying of my grandpaws to mind. Penny wise and pound foolish. Lots of things you can skimp on when you ride. Two places I NEVER skimp are tires and brakes
 

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You mentioned in the other post that you had polluted your bike with WD40. It probably got on the rims/brake pads.

The bike is what, 30-40 years old? Brake pads get hard and useless in that time. The rims are probably chromed steel as well. Chrome doesn't make a very good brake surface. What I'm saying is, even with new pads your rear brake will probably be a "slow down" brake rather than a "stop" brake - don't expect too much from it. All of your braking power is in the front, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok note taken no wd40 but it's too late but it did get everything moving again even if it is bad. the breaks and shifter were all froze up
as soon as I can get some help I'll get her out side and see how everything works but untill I know I can stop I am not even going to try.
I'll keep y;'all posted :)
 

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Rat Biker
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ok note taken no wd40 but it's too late but it did get everything moving again even if it is bad. the breaks and shifter were all froze up
as soon as I can get some help I'll get her out side and see how everything works but untill I know I can stop I am not even going to try.
I'll keep y;'all posted :)

WD is most excellent for that they mean don't use it as a chain lube. Not usually recommended for that. Go to the bike shop and get a bottle of White Lightning it's a liquid wax I use it myself now just for the chain. by the way nice looking bike I ride Panasonic Sport 1000 that looks pretty similar to yours. She's fast and fun for me :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes she is fast topped out at over
18 mph on a straight away for over 2 miles today and with not much effort not bad when my mt bike only wants to go 15 and kill me
 

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Rat Biker
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Yeah think I got mine near bout 22 mph fastest speed next year get me a real raodie I'm flat out hooked now.
 

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Yesterday tired old man, Today retired old man
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I just plunk along at 10-11 mph on my touring bike, I don't see me getting any faster maybe slow a little as I age 66 and still cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was always the last kid to do everything or get picked or its nice being able go keep up for once my. Bf even says its a fast. Bike I like it cause I don't have go peddle to death to hold my speed I can cost a long way before slowing down
 
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