Two Spoke Forums banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm not good with bikes so I don't know what bikes are worth what price; they have all these different components. There are bikes at walmart.com but I don't know if their low quality is worth the $60 price tag, if they are going to have problems too soon, or if I'm buying junk.

For my needs, a good used bike is best. My needs are basically commuting, and I'm going to do some cycling. I'm not looking to just get any bike. I'm looking for a bike that would last a really long time. I'm looking to get a road bike since that seems best for my needs. I'm looking at a price range of $0-$200 - anything over that is too expensive for me.

For computing technology, prices are always going down, while performance increases. For example, you can get a lot more GB per $ compared to a year ago. But that's for the computing industry. Not all industries improve quality while decreasing prices. Some industries go the way of marketing - they never really improve quality, but still increase prices over time. Newegg.com is a great example for a place to buy computing-related stuff. Circuit city went bankrupted, and Best Buy should also go bankrupt. The least worst for drugs is drugstore.com which still has a very limited selection, and prices are mediocre. You still have to deal with CVS, Walgreen and Rite Aid. What about bikes? Is there nothing? at least in the US.

I'm looking for a good value, which is quality divided by price. But I don't know how to quantify quality. I don't know what's worth what.

The other problem is fit. All the bikes I saw was too large for me. The mass-retailers organize it by wheel size which is very unhelpful, and they had a limited selection. And most of the bike shops don't have my fit, and for the one or two that may, they charge a lot. I know my standover height, and from all I read, is the first most important thing. Nothing else matters if the standover height of the bike doesn't meet my fitting needs. For other biking aspects, the more I read, the more complicated things got. Things that are irrelevant for my needs. My standover height is 25.5"-27" which changes depending on the wheels. 27" would give me a one inch clearance.

Please advise. Need recommendations for a good value bike so I can get one already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Good luck, gonna be tough to fill that order. I suggest leave the "box" stores and look at Craig's list maybe, I'm guessing you are looking at a 60-61cm frame size.

I'm about your size, 6'3" give or take I'm guessing, if not you better remeasure. Like I said though, good luck.

BTW, welcome to two spoke.

DrB
 

·
Yesterday tired old man, Today retired old man
Joined
·
4,311 Posts
Craigslist is where I found a Quick 6, 2 months old for $ 200 it is low end cannondale but I wanted somthing cheep to se if I could ride a strate bar bike with my bad sholder.
 

·
Total noob (& forum admin)
Joined
·
12,350 Posts
Good luck, gonna be tough to fill that order. I suggest leave the "box" stores and look at Craig's list maybe, I'm guessing you are looking at a 60-61cm frame size.

I'm about your size, 6'3" give or take I'm guessing, if not you better remeasure. Like I said though, good luck.

BTW, welcome to two spoke.

DrB
With a standover of 27", that would be a tiny frame. A 56cm frame offers roughly 32" of standover.

Anyone with a budget of less than $200 needs to look at used MTBs. You can add a pair of slicks later, but they'll be a much better value at that price point.

My ex wife just sold a custom short travel XC frame with a Horst link and Fox shock, full XTR, and lots of titanium bits, for $500. So all folks need to do is look for clueless sellers that have their ex-husband's gear for sale.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,501 Posts
For my needs, a good used bike is best. My needs are basically commuting, and I'm going to do some cycling. I'm not looking to just get any bike. I'm looking for a bike that would last a really long time. I'm looking to get a road bike since that seems best for my needs. I'm looking at a price range of $0-$200 - anything over that is too expensive for me.
Used is really your only choice if you want a decent bike for under $200.00.
inventivefficiency said:
The other problem is fit. All the bikes I saw was too large for me. The mass-retailers organize it by wheel size which is very unhelpful, and they had a limited selection. And most of the bike shops don't have my fit, and for the one or two that may, they charge a lot. I know my standover height, and from all I read, is the first most important thing. Nothing else matters if the standover height of the bike doesn't meet my fitting needs. For other biking aspects, the more I read, the more complicated things got. Things that are irrelevant for my needs. My standover height is 25.5"-27" which changes depending on the wheels. 27" would give me a one inch clearance.
Try an on line fit system like www.wrenchscience.com. It's free and will give you an idea about what frame size will fit you best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
This is my fit in cm - I overestimated instead of underestimating. I'll go note down some road/hybrid bike so I can compare later. young adult bikes if they have.

Seat tube range c-c
Seat tube range c-t
Top tube length
Stem Length
BB-Saddle Position
Saddle-Handlebar
Saddle Setback

The Competitive Fit
45.9 - 46.4
47.4 - 47.9
52.4 - 52.8
10.2 - 10.
66.7 - 68.7
47.5 - 48.1
0.1 - 0.5

The Eddy Fit
47.1 - 47.6
48.6 - 49.1
52.4 - 52.8
9.1 - 9.7
65.9 - 67.9
48.3 - 48.9
1.3 - 1.7

The French Fit
48.8 - 49.3
50.3 - 50.8
53.6 - 54.0
9.3 - 9.9
64.2 - 66.2
50.0 - 50.6
0.8 - 1.2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
weekly 5-10miles total

I still have the problem of not knowing what used bikes are worth what, so when checking craigslist, it is difficult.
 

·
Yesterday tired old man, Today retired old man
Joined
·
4,311 Posts
bikepedia is where you can look up bikes and see how much $$ thay were new and what specks are on them . Some ask a lot for there bike and some give them away, I know there were 2 mountin bikes his & hers on there that were given as a present and rode 4 times thay wanted like $90 each. Thay did not last long so check often.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
There is certainly a lot of misinformation out here. Craigslist and bikepedia may be where you want to find the bike, but you still need to know what size. First, you should be able to get something close to the correct size just by your height. I can here some of you now, but don't get your panties in a bunch, this person wants to pay $0-200 for a road bike! We all know that ain't happening without getting a beater. The standover thing is a bit of a crock and the bike fits from Competitive Cyclist are just wrong (that would take a while), though they will get you close. Real bike fit is about the length of the top & head tubes and how they correlate to your body. For $200 - just get close. BTW, in the case of your Wal-Mart bike, your good value equation doesn't work - 0/whatever price is NA.

If you are 5'7"-5'8" get a bike with a 52.5-54cm top tube, 5'8"-5'10.5" get a bike with a54-55.5cm TT; it doesn't sound like you are taller so I'll stop there. The head tube plays heavily into what bike will feel best to you, but I have limited info (and time) on you.

Bottom line: $200 will get you a cheap, used road bike, or one that is very old.

For those on the Competitive Cyclist fit BS, just look at the first two fits. The overall length (TT + stem length) is nearly identical and the BB/Saddle position are different. That is crap. Look at the French Fit (a brevet/randonneuring bike - their terms), the overall length is the LONGEST, when it should be the shortest. Think this way, if you are going to be on that bike for many hours do you want to be way laid over the top tube; i thought not. Also, they again change the BB position and the saddle setback. The saddle setback is about your femur length not bike style.
 

·
Total noob (& forum admin)
Joined
·
12,350 Posts
There is certainly a lot of misinformation out here. Craigslist and bikepedia may be where you want to find the bike, but you still need to know what size. First, you should be able to get something close to the correct size just by your height. I can here some of you now, but don't get your panties in a bunch, this person wants to pay $0-200 for a road bike! We all know that ain't happening without getting a beater. The standover thing is a bit of a crock and the bike fits from Competitive Cyclist are just wrong (that would take a while), though they will get you close. Real bike fit is about the length of the top & head tubes and how they correlate to your body. For $200 - just get close. BTW, in the case of your Wal-Mart bike, your good value equation doesn't work - 0/whatever price is NA.

If you are 5'7"-5'8" get a bike with a 52.5-54cm top tube, 5'8"-5'10.5" get a bike with a54-55.5cm TT; it doesn't sound like you are taller so I'll stop there. The head tube plays heavily into what bike will feel best to you, but I have limited info (and time) on you.

Bottom line: $200 will get you a cheap, used road bike, or one that is very old.

For those on the Competitive Cyclist fit BS, just look at the first two fits. The overall length (TT + stem length) is nearly identical and the BB/Saddle position are different. That is crap. Look at the French Fit (a brevet/randonneuring bike - their terms), the overall length is the LONGEST, when it should be the shortest. Think this way, if you are going to be on that bike for many hours do you want to be way laid over the top tube; i thought not. Also, they again change the BB position and the saddle setback. The saddle setback is about your femur length not bike style.
Your name is appropriate, given your logic.
 

·
Total noob (& forum admin)
Joined
·
12,350 Posts
Care to explain?​
Based on your backwards fitting, I should find a frame that fits my long torso first, and not worry about the fact that my feet would not be able to touch the ground without dire consequences to my testicles, due to my short legs?

Rubbish.

Unless someone is out of "normal" proportions, then stand-over is the starting point for proper fit. Due to variations in BB height and sloping top tubes, that has to be correct before any other fitting can be done. You can raise or lower your seat, and get a longer or shorter stem, but you can't raise your nuts.

And I've never once seen anyone consider the head tube when fitting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Based on your backwards fitting, I should find a frame that fits my long torso first, and not worry about the fact that my feet would not be able to touch the ground without dire consequences to my testicles, due to my short legs?

Rubbish.

Unless someone is out of "normal" proportions, then stand-over is the starting point for proper fit. Due to variations in BB height and sloping top tubes, that has to be correct before any other fitting can be done. You can raise or lower your seat, and get a longer or shorter stem, but you can't raise your nuts.

And I've never once seen anyone consider the head tube when fitting.
Clearly you have no idea how to fit a bike!! Fit is started at the top tube. If I have a really long torso, I must accomodate that first because it is not very easy to make it longer to fit my long torso. Yes, I can change the stem length, but only so much before I get a weird handling bike. One of the nice benefits of sloping TT bikes is the increased standover for short-legged forks. Additionally, different companies have bikes that slope more or less. Someone with stubby little legs would be smart to find a bike that has a good amount of slope to the TT.

As for head tube length, just another comment that shows your lack of knowledge. Someone who is inflexible may need a longer head tube so that they have less drop from the saddle to the bars and therefore do not have reach as far down - letting them be more upright. Why do you think Specialized created, and many others have copied, the Roubaix. The big difference between a Tarmac and a Roubaix is the head tube length. For example, the head tube on 56cm Roubaix is 2cm taller than on a Tarmac. other important parts of the geometry are identical/similar - top tube length, head (this is slightly more laid back on the Roubaix) and seat angles. The longer head tube may also aid the rider who has long legs and a relatively short torso - the longer head tube will provide higher bars so that their high saddle height is without extensive drop to the bars.

Do not insult people before thinking!​
 

·
Total noob (& forum admin)
Joined
·
12,350 Posts
Clearly you have no idea how to fit a bike!! Fit is started at the top tube. If I have a really long torso, I must accomodate that first because it is not very easy to make it longer to fit my long torso. Yes, I can change the stem length, but only so much before I get a weird handling bike. One of the nice benefits of sloping TT bikes is the increased standover for short-legged forks. Additionally, different companies have bikes that slope more or less. Someone with stubby little legs would be smart to find a bike that has a good amount of slope to the TT.

As for head tube length, just another comment that shows your lack of knowledge. Someone who is inflexible may need a longer head tube so that they have less drop from the saddle to the bars and therefore do not have reach as far down - letting them be more upright. Why do you think Specialized created, and many others have copied, the Roubaix. The big difference between a Tarmac and a Roubaix is the head tube length. For example, the head tube on 56cm Roubaix is 2cm taller than on a Tarmac. other important parts of the geometry are identical/similar - top tube length, head (this is slightly more laid back on the Roubaix) and seat angles. The longer head tube may also aid the rider who has long legs and a relatively short torso - the longer head tube will provide higher bars so that their high saddle height is without extensive drop to the bars.

Do not insult people before thinking!​
Read my last post again. All of it, all the way through. Then go back and read the one before that. Clearly, I insulted you after thinking, not before.

Oh, and head tubes can't be longer, only taller. The idea that a taller head tube is somehow required to raise the height of the handlebars is also rubbish.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Read my last post again. All of it, all the way through. Then go back and read the one before that. Clearly, I insulted you after thinking, not before.

Oh, and head tubes can't be longer, only taller. The idea that a taller head tube is somehow required to raise the height of the handlebars is also rubbish.

Oh, my mistake, clearly you just aren't that bright.

A taller (length is ok too) head tube is not the only way, but it is cleaner than 40mm of spacers and a 20 degree stem. I'm sure that all who have read this will no longer listen to much you have to say.
 

·
Total noob (& forum admin)
Joined
·
12,350 Posts
Oh, my mistake, clearly you just aren't that bright.

A taller (length is ok too) head tube is not the only way, but it is cleaner than 40mm of spacers and a 20 degree stem. I'm sure that all who have read this will no longer listen to much you have to say.
Since you obviously don't have any real experience fitting actual cyclists to actual bicycles, why don't you cite the source of your misinformation?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Since you obviously don't have any real experience fitting actual cyclists to actual bicycles, why don't you cite the source of your misinformation?
Yes, you are HACK. Not only do i have actual experience, I will have my 5th fit this week in 3 hours. How many have you done? Further, I have been through both Serotta and Specialized BG Fit schools. What actual training have you had? Right, a little bit of OJT in Australia. You are why I have long stayed away from these forums -- they are poluted with idiots, with just enough knowledge to make them dangerous.​
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top