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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple questions on bike maintenance.

First I have a Titanium frame with a full Shimano Ultegra 6700 grupo and a CF front fork.

My bottom bracket creaks. Need to be pushing pretty hard, but a loud creak. I have tightened it up to the point I am uncomfortable tightening it any more.
Do I need a new crank? The LBS told me the BB and crank are sold separately but is one thing and needs to be treated as a single unit.
He also told me to try "anti-sieze" on the threads of the bottom bracket.
Seems to me the anti sieze would not allow the thing the tightened and stay that way?
Does using anti sieze make sense on a creaky bottom bracket?

Are cassettes and chains a matched set?
The same lbs told me when I need a chain I also need a cassette.
???
 

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Two skinny J's
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My BB used to creak as well. Mine was noticeable when I got out of the saddle, for example, when working the hills. In my case it's a CF frame and the bearing ( press fit )would slip/spin. I tried several new bearings with no luck and concluded it was the BB itself. I used a thin coat of red RTV to hold it in place and no more creak. I had tried packing it tight with grease but that was a fail.

It's proabably best to change both chain and cassette at the same time.
 

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You do not need to replace a cassette every time you replace a chain, as I understand it.

If the chain is just starting to need replacement and you haven't had significant damage on the cassette, I believe you can re-use it.

Rola will disagree with me though although I will tell you, I would replace the cassette if it were me, no need have a chewed up cassette ruin a new chain.

As far as matching, there are certain incompatibilities with some chains/cassettes but I do not know enough to comment.
 

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10 speed chains last about 2500 miles depending on riding conditions. Cassette can last 5 times that and longer if you replace your chain and lubricate it regularly.

Of course keep in mind that the LBS SELLS both chains and cassettes.
 

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I have replaced chains on both my road bikes without having to replace either of the cassettes. If you change the chain at the first sign of wear, the cassette should be OK. If you have too much stretch in the chain, I would change the cassette, as well; even it the teeth look OK. The chains on my bikes were changed at two different shops and both mechanics told me the same thing.

You can use chains from other manufacturers as long as the chain is for the same speed cassette. My last chain on the Colnago was a 105 and it got replaced with an Ultegra chain. It has a 105 crankset and cassette and Ultegra derailleurs and shifters. No issues at all with the Ultegra chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Couple of things first.

1. Are you sure its the BB? I ask because I was convinced it was but it ended up being my pedals/cleats.

2. How many miles and age? this will help answer cassette/chian issue as well.

3. Do you ride in the rain/leave bike outside?

4. Was this diagnosed by LBS as a BB issue?
1-Well, when I tightened up the bb last time it started creaking, the noise disappeared. So that is what led me to the bb, I also made sure the pedals were tight on the crank arms.

2- The bike has been ridden. I got it new in '09 and it has 6400 miles on the computer. I put almost 700 miles on it last month. It is treated well, never in rain and stored inside.

3- No, the bike has never seen the insides of a bike shop. I have used this bike to teach myself the art of keeping a racing bike running. I maintain the devil out of it. It's my baby. I got a bike stand and a tool kit and a trueing stand at the same time and that is my bike's life.

I am on my 3rd chain.
 

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Your cassette should be fine.

Check to make sure the chain ring screws are tight. Some creaking can eminate from the chain rings being under torqued.
 

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Yesterday tired old man, Today retired old man
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The anti-seize will let the thread tighten farther with the same amount of torque, you may get an extra 1/8 turn for the same amount of torque.
My ¢¢
 

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Anti-seize, regardless. Dissimilar metals will happy cold-weld themselves together over time. Unless you really love that BB, you'll want to remove it, be generous with anti-seize, and then snug it back down properly. Otherwise it will become permanent.

While you're at it, check all the other drivetrain fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Understood!
I will go over the entire bike and do it up. I happen to already have some anti sieze copper I got for the Jeep.
The bike has a race in September, a Triathlon. I want it 100% before that race. This will be my bike's fifth race.
Zoom zoom.
 

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Yesterday tired old man, Today retired old man
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Just rember if it says 20 ft lbs with oil it will be less with anti-seize
 

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Two skinny J's
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Nickel is the preferred for ti if your going to use it...

I'm sure Ill be berated for saying this...but anti-seize in this application is overkill when a thin layer of grease and proper periodic maintenance would suffice. Most ant-seize is made for high heat corrosive environments and even then in some applications, such as turbines and plenums, it may not be used at all as it will/may cause hot spots.

Ok, I'm moving along :D
 

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Loctite blue 242 will also work the same as anti sieze. It will form a layer between the mating parts preventing the galvanization from taking place.

Loctite has one advantage over grease and anti sieze. It will also prevent fasteners from backing out due to road vibration.

Whatever you choose grease, Anti sieze or loctite all are better than nothing.
 
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