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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy yall..

Here is my bike, a Gary Fisher Advance 2003.

Advance | Gary Fisher Bicycles

It isn't a fancy or expensive bike but it gets me around town just fine. Anyhow, I’m doing an overhaul on it by getting a new rear derailer a new crank and sprocket set along with new front forks. I don't want to spend a whole heck of a lot of money, hopefully around a hundred bucks or less.

I have some specific questions about the forks though.

Here is one for instance that i would consider buying, unless you guys can point me to something better.

SR Suntour CR-880 Suspension Fork Mountain Bike 26" NEW: 344053 Crosslake Sales

In particular i would like to know about this information, "Steerer Tube 1 1/8" Threaded 230mm (approximately 57mm of threading)"

Obviously the 1 1/8" is the outer diameter of the tube but what is the stuff about the Threaded 230mm and 57mm of threading.
My guess is that the 230mm the length of the tube. I don't know about the 57mm thing though.

How do i find this information about the RST Capa CL fork though. I have looked around already and haven't been able to find out if it is threaded or what. It would be obvious to me if i knew what they are talking about.

Ok i'll stop here so not to have a LONG drawn out post that no one wants to read.


Thanks to the mod for fixing my links. I wasn't in the mood to add the html tags. =D

Younger than Hack
746 Posts
The 57mm threaded means that the top 57mm of the tube is threaded. That way you can determine if it will fit your application. Say you need a tube 200mm long you get that one cut 30 mm off of it to match your existing and you will still have 27mm of threads so you can tighten it up.

Now if your existing is 150mm long when you cut this one to fit there will be no threads to put it together with.

DX's Biggest Member
793 Posts
Clicked on your link to see the bike; you can't really use that fork. You have a threadless setup.

Depending on how you ride, a Suntour fork can crutch you along, or it can fold under you. It's about commuter-bike quality.

If you're looking at a new drivetrain (and that's pretty much what you're saying, what with the new derailleur AND crank, etc), good luck staying under $100.

What's the setup you have on it now? Details, please.
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