[ArrizX]

Over many discussions on other forums and talking to my brother who restores old BMX bikes ive narrowed myself down to a 20" bike.


Now I am looking at a couple different things. I dont really want to buy brand new but honestly around here I have little to NO selection. This is the only bike worth buying locally and I am going to look at it tomorrow

20" Redline boys bike

In other news my brother showed me this one site and said DK has some pretty awesome bikes under 300 bucks (max budget)

I really like this bike

DK Cygnus 20" Bike 2010 by DK

However there is this bike that is almost the same thing for less money (only difference is the crank that either wont matter to me or can be change at my digression)

DK Siklon Bike 2010 by DK

And then there are is a bike that is between those two in price and then a couple more at the 300 dollar mark.

I dont know if I will notice a difference between these at ALL.

My background is I used to BMX on a redline back when I couldnt drive in the 13/14 area. And everyone had Haro's and my bike was the **** for sure. Then 16 came around and I lost it all when i got my car... barely have been on a bike since.

I want a bike for exercise and to ride to work in the urban small town area (kind of small town that still has dirt roads in places) and do the street stuff like curb hopping and stairs and grinding stuff and such.... I can always get another bike next summer or something. But for now will I notice a difference between anything or should I just get the cheapest thing (craigslist???)

Or or or........... help


Edit-I just noticed the bike that is in the middle of those two, is aluminum

http://www.danscomp.com/101256.php?cat=BIKES

But only offeres a found pounds of savings. Not sure if it matters to have or not.

 

[Industry_Hack]

You'll want to avoid aluminum unless you're racing, and hi-ten, unless you weigh 100lbs and don't ride hard.

I got rid of my last Redline racing bike long before you were born, so you might think I'm partial to them, but my guess is that something like the Haro Backtrail X3 is hard to beat. Full cro-mo frame, forks, and cranks. Stout wheels with 14mm axles, and a rear cassette hub instead of a freewheel. You can hammer that bike without fear of breaking anything.

Weight shouldn't be a concern. Before kids got soft and lazy from video games, we used to rock bikes like the Mongoose with mags, which must have been pushing 40lbs.

 

[ArrizX]

Interesting. Thanks

 

[chiliphil1]

Yep, you want 4130 Chromoly frame and fork, 3 piece crank and a 14mm rear axle, at the level you're at you would not be able to tell the difference in a cheap bike and higher priced one (no offense) you have to be at a higher level to worry about that, but I would reccomebdation going with some thing from a bike shop, Dans comp, or I have seen some great stuff for cheap on craigslist, just don't get a mongoose, a next, or something like that.