Hi everyone. I have recently got back into riding. I currently have an old rigid mountain bike with 15 gears and 26 inch tyres. I have been increasing my distance and I do realize that being a bit overweight and starting from scratch I will be a bit slow. When I am out on my rides I see a lot of road bikes flying past. I tend to ride on gravel paths, roads and some trails. I like the fact that I feel I can go anywhere with my MTB. I don't ride MTB trails.
So here are my questions.
1. Is the position of a gravel/road bike better or worse for long rides?
2. Are drop bars better?
3. On a gravel bike will there be more punctures?
4. Will I be faster on a gravel/road bike at my current fitness level?
5. What is the gearing difference.
That is all I could think of. The way I like to ride at the moment is to see all the scenery. Be comfortable. But I would like to be faster. Any ideas would be great. I am not looking to buy anything at the moment so budget is not a limiter. I just would like to know what everyone's experiences have been when going on long rides.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Welcome back to the saddle! I will try to address your questions in the order asked:
1. A lot of this is down to the frame and fit geometry of the individual bike. Some are oriented to going fast, others to multi-hour comfort.
2. As I understand it, drop bars primarily help in two ways: multiple hand positions mean your hands are less likely to get sore and cramped. Also, riding in the drops puts you in a more aerodynamic position. I understand gravel biking has led to the manufacture of a range of wider drop bars offering better rough road steering geometry. I hasten to add that my experience here is second-hand as I am unable to use drop bars for physiological reasons. If you are interested in alternatives to drop bars or old school flat bars such as those found on most MTBs, they are out there. I ride with
trekking bars on my touring bike and love them for everything from pavement to mild singletrack. Jones H-Bars and Surly Moloko bars are both popular replacements for flat bars. There are many others, not all of which are as pricey.
3. This depends on a lot of factors: are you running a tubeless setup with good tires? If not, are you running some other form of tube-based puncture sealant such as Slime? In the Western United States, it's been my experience that cyclists need some kind of sealant in their tires without regard to whether they are running tubeless or tubed. This can be a hotly debated subject and there are a range of viewpoints. My own is that with sealant, one has far fewer flats. The caveat to that is that the flats you do get can be nastier, and it's critical to pay attention to your tires' air pressure. Every time sealant saves you from a puncture, you lose a little pressure from that tire. Top off before heading out for best results. If running tubeless, carry a set of tire plugs (the infamous side of bacon). Whether tubeless or tubed, carry a spare tube and patch kit. Also tire boots which can be used to repair many tire failures in the field.
4. That is likely, but also probably an apples to oranges comparison: it is quite likely that a modern gravel bike will be significantly lighter than an old school rigid MTB. It's also likely that the gravel bike will be geared for riding faster where the MTB is likely geared more for climbing. When you're starting out or returning after a hiatus, recovering your fitness level by riding regularly and comfortably is the single biggest way to get faster.
5. This is hard to answer without further information, but see above for a very general rule.
When it comes to going on long rides or going fast, the single biggest factor is comfort. I know how that sounds, but it's actually true, especially over long distances. If your bike is comfortable to ride, you're more likely to ride it regularly. Riding regularly brings better conditioning and more speed or mileage.
It should not hurt to ride your bike. If it does, that's frequently a sign that something is wrong. Pay attention and keep your ride comfortable. Tingling and numbness in hands or other contact areas indicates a fitment problem and should not be ignored over time. Ditto pain in the wrists or knees, back, etc.
Maintain your present ride and get out for as many miles as your sustainably can, and you'll get faster.
