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I have been adjusting and tweaking my seat position on my road bike for weeks now and can't find something that to me seems high enough to make the bike feel lighter and not have my feet hurt.
 

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Two skinny J's
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I have been adjusting and tweaking my seat position on my road bike for weeks now and can't find something that to me seems high enough to make the bike feel lighter and not have my feet hurt.
Sore feet may be from cleat position or shoe size/type, etc. Seat height should be set to leg extension meaning you should have 25-30*(ish) of bend in your knee when you are at the bottom of your stroke. Not sure what you mean by "making the bike feel lighter"

For example :http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/technique-how-to-get-your-seat-height-right-14608/
 

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Are they sore or are you getting hot spots?

I use Shimano M520 pedals on my road bike, it is a MTB pedal/SPD cleat, double sided entry. I get hot spots with these pedals on hot days or if I ride a lot a few days in a row.

My hybrid uses 525 or 530 pedals (can't remember). It is also a dual sided SPD cleat pedal, but has an entire platform on it, can be ridden with or without cleats. I do not get hot spots when using these pedals.

I have read it can be shoes (size/fit/insole/sole stiffness), cleat position, foot swelling from heat, sock selection and entire bike fit. I do not know enough about the science/art of bike fitting, others can contribute to that.

As far as making the bike feel "lighter" do you mean you feel you are working too hard for a given result? If so, improper position can cause an inefficient use of muscles, as I understand it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Feeling lighter means I feel like I'm doing less work to pedal. If that makes sense I have tried adjusting my cleats as well and I noticed last night I keep sliding forward and putting a bunch of pressure on my taint. I got off and moved it back a bit and when I got back on that didn't help so then I moved it more forward than it was and that didn't seem to help either
 

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Feeling lighter means I feel like I'm doing less work to pedal.
I would think cadence and gearing if that is the case. Grinding it out with a slow 65-75-80 cadence is better for saving lungs but much more work with the legs. I feel best between 90-100 and for me that makes the work load "light".
 

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oznation said:
I keep sliding forward and putting a bunch of pressure on my taint. I got off and moved it back a bit and when I got back on that didn't help so then I moved it more forward than it was and that didn't seem to help either
I used to have that problem on my Defy, my first road bike. Between the lack of core strength and Mr. Gut getting in the way, I always rode with my hands on the bar. As I started increasing my core strength and decreasing the waist size, I changed riding positions from the bar to the hoods. Regardless of what I did to the saddle, I would end up sliding forward and numbing the boys. For me the solution was a shorter stem (110 mm to 90 mm). After that, the sliding issue was no more.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I have checked it and checked it again. I am starting to wonder of my sit bones are not right for my saddle.
 

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Very likely, but its more like the saddle is not right for your sit bones. A good shop can measure the width of your sit bones, I've seen a few different devices but most are the same, it's a pressure sensitive mat that you sit on, then as the mat compresses against a colored board the spots are marked where the bones are. You then take that measurement and use an appropriately wide saddle.

I had a Kappa Pas Pro Logo on my road bike when I bought it, I could barely be out for 15 minutes before I was nearly in tears.. I was measured and a Selle Italia Max Flight/Flight Max is pure heaven. I've also seen a lot of guys on the Diva, it's the female version of the saddle that is wider and many men find it comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok thanks for the advice/insight. I am going to call around to a few bike shops and see if they have anything in which you describe and go from there
 

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If you can find a Specialized shop, you can sit on their "Assometer" ( that's actually the name!) to find the right saddle width.
 

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INTEGRATE said:
If you can find a Specialized shop, you can sit on their "Assometer" ( that's actually the name!) to find the right saddle width.
Would a place like a performance bike store have this?
 

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Unfortunately, it's a Specialized exclusive.
 
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