Sore feet may be from cleat position or shoe size/type, etc. Seat height should be set to leg extension meaning you should have 25-30*(ish) of bend in your knee when you are at the bottom of your stroke. Not sure what you mean by "making the bike feel lighter"I have been adjusting and tweaking my seat position on my road bike for weeks now and can't find something that to me seems high enough to make the bike feel lighter and not have my feet hurt.
I would think cadence and gearing if that is the case. Grinding it out with a slow 65-75-80 cadence is better for saving lungs but much more work with the legs. I feel best between 90-100 and for me that makes the work load "light".Feeling lighter means I feel like I'm doing less work to pedal.
I used to have that problem on my Defy, my first road bike. Between the lack of core strength and Mr. Gut getting in the way, I always rode with my hands on the bar. As I started increasing my core strength and decreasing the waist size, I changed riding positions from the bar to the hoods. Regardless of what I did to the saddle, I would end up sliding forward and numbing the boys. For me the solution was a shorter stem (110 mm to 90 mm). After that, the sliding issue was no more.oznation said:I keep sliding forward and putting a bunch of pressure on my taint. I got off and moved it back a bit and when I got back on that didn't help so then I moved it more forward than it was and that didn't seem to help either