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Note that friction-facts has launched a new website for their waxed chains: ultrafastoptimization.com and if you thought $25 was a bit rich, they charge $66 for a re-wax. Looks like the winner of the 2013 ironman world championship uses a waxed chain.


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$66.00 is more than the price of a DuraAce chain. :eek: I guess if you are sponsored and the sponsor picks up the tab it doesn't really matter. I'll stick with my $8.99 bottle of dry Teflon lube.
 

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John, you are missing the point. You could buy a Dura Ace chain instead but you still wouldn't be getting the additional 6 watts (tested at 250watts/95 rpm). $66 is a small price to pay for 6 extra watts to a pro or competitive amateur. I think it is understood that this is not for everyone, just as some people think Dura Ace is not worth the price.


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Agree, if you are a pro or amateur competitive cyclist, it is definitely worth the extra edge you get. I also agree with my mechanic that DuraAce chains aren't any different than an Ultegra or 105 chain other than a few less grams in weight. According to him, they don't last as long as Ultegra or 105 chains.


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... But did you know that they are actually made by KMC to Shimano's spec (at least that is what I read somewhere).


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... But did you know that they are actually made by KMC to Shimano's spec (at least that is what I read somewhere).


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I've not heard that but I wouldn't be at all surprised. Most people are shocked to find where their favorite brand name products are made. I remember when almost everything used to be made in Japan. Now, even Japan outsources much of their manufacturing.


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So true. I'm old enough to remember the start of cotter less cranks and the first ones from Japan used to snap. I was chasing somebody in a cyclocross race and only got past him because his Suntour cotterless crank snapped.


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I have waxed my chain in the past, and seems to do the job pretty well on the extra long chain for recumbents/velomobiles. I also highly recommend waxing the rim and spoke nipples. It keeps those parts clean and keeps the nipples adjustable, especially in areas of rainy and grimy city conditions. Since I ride daily all-year-'round, in any weather, a waxed wheel turns out to be a happy wheel! I bet chains are happier too.

In the German cycling forums, there is lots of discussion about what is the best type or longer lasting wax. They scrutinize and review everything from car wax by various brands, to coconut-oil-based wax. The hardcore riders swear by regular waxing their bikes for parts longevity.
 

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^^ Interesting point about the waxing of the spokes and nipples, I've done that for years but used car wax then polished the spokes and nipples and top of the rims (not the brake track obviously!) which always puts a small amount of wax between the nipple and the spoke, and the eyelet, I've never had a seized spoke in over 40 years of riding. An old rider taught me that trick many years ago, it keeps the stuff from seizing and it makes the parts shine.
 

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My little experiment with wax is over. Rust started to appear rather quickly. Cleaned it again and I am using the lube the LBS recommended.

Peace out!
Yup, fortunately you found out the rust issue first before you found out your chains life was dramatically shortened!
 

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As far as rust goes, this happens if you don't re-wax in time, just as when you do not oil your chain. Heavy rain with road grit will wash away oil just as it wears away wax. In this scenario you need to clean/re-oil and clean/re-wax respectively. Wax has no advantage over oil in the rain on terms of longevity except that research has shown that it still delivers less friction. I re-wax after every ride in heavy rain.


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As far as rust goes, this happens if you don't re-wax in time, just as when you do not oil your chain. Heavy rain with road grit will wash away oil just as it wears away wax. In this scenario you need to clean/re-oil and clean/re-wax respectively. Wax has no advantage over oil in the rain on terms of longevity except that research has shown that it still delivers less friction. I re-wax after every ride in heavy rain.


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This has been disproven time and time again, oil prevents rust far better than wax. Sheldon Brown has an article about this fact as well.

As far as less friction...I ponder that "fact", if true why haven't the pros switched back to wax? They use to year ago, but they don't any longer and they know all about the latest stuff to increase speed however slight it may be, yet none have embraced waxing the chain...at least not so far. Even if they do start embracing it, I remember the hassle of doing that to chains and I will NEVER go back no matter what the pros do, or might do.
 

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Actually I believe 3 out of the top 10 makes used a wax chain as did the third placed female. No ones asking you to use a wax chain ... But there are valid reasons why others choose to.


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Actually I believe 3 out of the top 10 makes used a wax chain as did the third placed female. No ones asking you to use a wax chain ... But there are valid reasons why others choose to.


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I wasn't arguing not to use wax, just reporting the facts that it does not prevent rust nor will the chain last as long as it will with oil. Pros won't care about how long their chain lasts, they get a free chain by snapping their fingers, we, or at least me, don't have that luxury.

Anyway read this: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/maintenance/chain.html
http://www.nordicgroup.us/chain/
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-chain-lube-2010.html

Look this controversy won't ever go away, as I stated before, and if you read it carefully you would have noted it's just my opinion, not an effort to shove something down someone's throat, I use to wax my chains years ago, and when TriFlow hit the market I embraced it fully and never looked back to wax nor will I because of the huge hassle involved.
 

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FYI TriFlo Dry lube expends 6 watts versus wax's 4.8 watts per the Velonews article. Rock n' Roll Gold was the 2nd best lube and what I use on a wax chain if the wax might run out. Thanks for the healthy debate ... It's always good to hear another point of view.


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FYI TriFlo Dry lube expends 6 watts versus wax's 4.8 watts per the Velonews article. Rock n' Roll Gold was the 2nd best lube and what I use on a wax chain if the wax might run out. Thanks for the healthy debate ... It's always good to hear another point of view.


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I haven't used TriFlow for years, I tried a bunch of lubes over the last 35 years (not including the 5 years of hot wax method, by the way, the last 2 of those 5 years we discovered Slick 50 and added that to the wax). Of all those lubes I tried the best I liked, again just an opinion which is obviously not based on any scientific testing but rather on how long my chain remained quiet and how long a chain lasted, has been Pro Gold Extreme. BUT, I just purchased a bottle of Rock N Roll Gold but haven't used it yet thus no measurable guideline for noise or chain wear yet.

In my book, again an opinion but an opinion based on mechanical knowhow, that noise is metal to metal contact which means accelerated wear is happening. If any lube, be it wax or not, starts making noise too fast then it's junk in my book, and bottled wax lubes all started making noise at between 65 to 90 miles which meant when I did long rides I had to pack a bottle of it so I could reapply it somewhere along the ride! Hot wax lasted a bit longer but the chain would rust if it got wet and I found my chain life was quite a bit shorter with hot wax vs TriFlow when it came out. Since TriFlow better lubes have come out and I could tell again by how long the chain lasted.

How long a chain lasts is my yardstick if a lube is any good or not. I don't race so I could care less about friction issue, I doubt anyone can feel the difference in watts saved between hot wax vs Rock N Roll or for that matter the worst lube in that test! Someone should do a blindfold test with various lubes used on identical bikes on identical indoor trainers and see if someone can tell if one lube is faster than another...I seriously doubt anyone can tell the difference. Again for racing over a course of 100 miles the slickest wax may have an slight advantage over the least slickest, but for the non racer it's not important, what's important is how long the chain will last.

There was one guy on a different forum who once said he just buys a new chain when the factory lube wears out and felt the factory lube was the best. His argument was that a lot of these lubes cost more than a new chain! so he might as well buy a new chain which in turn he has noticed much longer service life on his gears. I don't know, but I do know I'm not that wealthy to pour money into chains every 250 or so miles.
 
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